Visit Chefchaouen, Morocco 

 

Chefchaouen city Chefchaouen or Chaouen, as it is often called by Moroccans, is a popular tourist destination given its proximity to Tangier and the Spanish border. The name simply refers to the shapes of the mountain tops that tower over the town, that look like the two horns (chaoua) of a goat. "Chef Chaouen" literally means "look at the horns". There are approximately two hundred hotels in this tiny mountain village in order to host the summer influx of European tourists. One distinction possessed by Chefchaouen is its blue-rinsed houses and buildings, a tradition that comes from the town's former Jewish population.

The Issaquah Press Issaquah gets a sister city Issaquah, meet Chefchaouen, your new sister city. By Jon Savelle Issaquah, meet Chefchaouen, your new sister city. The link became official in April, when a nine-member delegation from Issaquah flew to the town in northern Morocco for a nonstop week of ceremonies, visits, dinners, sightseeing and red-carpet hospitality. While the primary purpose of the visit was for Mayor Ava Frisinger and Chefchaouen Mayor Mohamed Saad El Alami to sign a sister-city agreement, it was clear that the Americans' visit was taken very seriously by the Moroccans. The Issaquah delegation was greeted upon arrival in Casablanca by government officials, whisked past customs to waiting cars, provided a security detail and all-expenses-paid accommodations, and given nationwide news coverage. For their part, the Issaquah group was mindful that they represented not only the people of this city, but also the United States itself. Besides Frisinger, the delegation included City Council Members Fred Butler and Eileen Barber, the Belali family, Chamber of Commerce representative Joan Probala, Festivals Office Director Robin Kelley and Mike Pautz, of the American Moroccan International Exchange. For all of them, the experience was as wondrous as it was unlikely - the more so because it sprang directly from the efforts of a girl, Iman Belali, who at 14 decided to do something for American-Moroccan relations and launched a student exchange program with her family's original home of Chefchaouen. Belali conceived the idea while visiting Morocco with her family. She noticed that Americans were perceived there as gun-toting invaders of the Arab world, while at home in America she saw all Arabs and Muslims tarred as terrorists. Rather than despair of changing the situation, Belali got her parents' permission to remove $5,000 from her college account and set up the American Moroccan International Exchange (AMIE) program for girls. The first group came to Issaquah in 2005, with a group from Issaquah traveling to Morocco in 2006. The success of AMIE inspired Belali to urge the two city governments to establish a sister-city relationship, an idea that was endorsed enthusiastically in both countries and approved by the Issaquah City Council last December. Little did anyone in Issaquah know then that in just a few months they would be treated as near royalty by the Kingdom of Morocco, and that the experience would affect their lives in profound ways. "It was a transformational experience," Frisinger said. "It was enlightening. We had very candid discussions we were able to engage in. It was neat." Throughout the visit, she and others in the group marveled that they were in Morocco at all, and that their visit was given such a high level of attention. "We thought it was amazing enough to go there for the signing of the memorandum of agreement," Frisinger said. "But they really treated it as an affair of state." Full itinerary No detail was left to chance. An itinerary planned by the Moroccan government mapped out events for each day, starting at 8 a.m. and ending with a dinner at 8 p.m. that stretched until midnight or later. In between were visits to historic sites, cities, museums, ministries, schools, provinces, parks, associations and institutes - even a reception by U.S. Ambassador Thomas Riley. Each was an occasion for impromptu speeches and personal diplomacy. "The emphasis was on the longstanding relationship of our two countries," Frisinger said. "Also, the sense of North African nations not being part of the Middle East." Everything was different and interesting. Frisinger said that in recent years King Mohammed VI has liberalized and decentralized the government by giving greater autonomy to cities and regions. He also has granted freedom of worship and mandated that at least 10 percent of government jobs must be held by women. Of particular interest to Frisinger is the Moroccan practice whereby elected officials hold positions at two different levels of government. Chefchaouen Mayor Mohamed Saad El Alami, for example, is also a minister in Parliament. He therefore has direct access to the central government and the king, and he is commonly addressed as "Mr. Mayor Minister." Moroccan programs There were other intriguing governance models. One is that provincial governors rotate positions every few years to reduce their opportunities for corruption; another is the very progressive social-services program in use. A community and homeless-persons' shelter has a mobile van staffed by a nurse and driver/social worker, who position themselves where street dwellers are observed. If contacted by them, the social workers will provide medical help or counseling, or transport the homeless to the center for housing and jobs referrals. The Moroccan government is pushing tourism as a means to economic growth, said Mohamed Belali, Iman's father. It has invested billions of dollars in coastal development, and wants to be seen as a friendly, safe place to visit. That is partly the reason for the high importance assigned to the Issaquah relationship, he said. But even Belali was astonished by the degree of hospitality shown to the visitors. "I did not expect to be invited, not only by government officials but by governors and mayors, to their private homes," he said. Even ordinary citizens were excited, some driving for hours to see what was happening. "At every stop, people asked: 'Why not my town?'" Hospitality reigns In Morocco, as in other Muslim countries, hospitality is all-important. Butler said it is symbolized by doors, often painted blue, which indicate that anyone who passes inside is considered family. Thus the miniature, ornately carved door, given to Issaquah at the signing ceremony, carries significance for the Moroccans that was not lost upon the Issaquah delegation. In exchange, Frisinger presented Mayor-Minister Mohamed Saad El Alami a watercolor painting of Issaquah, its lake and mountains. The latter were like a doorway to the city, she said. During the many meetings and events, Butler took notes on 3x5 cards. Reading through them in a recent interview, he reviewed the opportunities for further cooperation with Chefchaouen, particularly those areas in which Issaquah might provide valuable help. Among them: environmental stewardship along the lines of the Mountains to Sound Greenway and Friends of the Issaquah Salmon Hatchery; protection of water resources; English instruction, possibly via the Internet; and establishing other Internet-based links between schools. Moroccans to visit here Already the sister-city agreement provides for the visit here, in the fall, of two Moroccan artists. Both metal smiths working in traditional silver and copper, they will conduct workshops in Issaquah schools and at Salmon Days. Such exchanges are particularly interesting to Probala, who serves on the Arts Commission. She said she has traveled on two previous cultural exchanges, one to the Baltic region and one to Egypt, but she was surprised and delighted in Morocco. "I thought I knew what to expect," she said. But instead of playing the role of an American with help to offer, she and the others found themselves wide-eyed with amazement. "They have some things going on there that might be beneficial here," Probala said. Now the task for both cities is to keep the relationship strong. Mohamed Belali said another student exchange is planned for this year, and there is discussion of a visit by the Mayor Minister. But Belali has already cautioned the Moroccans that Issaquah may not be able to help with customs or chauffeurs. Reporter Jon Savelle can be reached at 392-6434, ext. 234, or at jsavelle@isspress.com.

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